从一碗鳝鱼米粉的沔味乡愁，到108道鳝鱼美食的仙桃记忆
<div class="wx_rich_media_content" id="jsWxContainer"><section data-role="outer" label="edit by 135editor" data-pm-slice="0 0 []"><p data-track="1" style='text-align: justify; box-sizing: border-box; margin-bottom: 20px; border: 0px; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 18px; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;'><span leaf="">鳝鱼米粉哪家最正宗?有人说是天门黄谭，有人记得的是仙桃老街。</span></p><p data-track="2" style='text-align: justify; box-sizing: border-box; margin-top: 20px; margin-bottom: 20px; border: 0px; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 18px; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;'><span leaf="">哪里不重要，不过是你是哪里人就记住了哪里的味道。</span></p><h1 style='font-size: 1.056em; margin-top: 20px; margin-bottom: 20px; border: 0px; line-height: 1.579; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); width: 676px; vertical-align: middle; text-align: justify; box-sizing: border-box; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;'><strong><span leaf="">鳝鱼米粉的乡愁，老街老粉馆的记忆</span></strong></h1><p data-track="3" style='text-align: justify; box-sizing: border-box; margin-top: 20px; margin-bottom: 20px; border: 0px; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 18px; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;'><span leaf="">早上的那一碗沔阳老街的鳝鱼米粉，是大姑妈回不去的乡愁。</span></p><p data-track="4" style='text-align: justify; box-sizing: border-box; margin-top: 20px; margin-bottom: 20px; border: 0px; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 18px; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;'><span leaf="">在武汉生活工作了大半辈子，每次回仙桃，大姑妈必然去老街的老粉馆去吃一碗鳝鱼米粉。对其他地方的糊汤粉是不认可的。</span></p><p data-track="8" style='text-align: justify; box-sizing: border-box; margin-top: 20px; margin-bottom: 20px; border: 0px; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 18px; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;'><span leaf="">有一次，我在武汉好奇地点了糊汤米粉，大姑妈用一种奇怪的眼神看着我，对我说：“呵呵，你怎么点这个？”那神态是极其不赞同。</span></p><p data-track="5" style='text-align: justify; box-sizing: border-box; margin-top: 20px; margin-bottom: 20px; border: 0px; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 18px; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;'><span leaf="">即便是沔阳县变成了仙桃市，大姑妈依旧固执地叫它沔阳市。</span></p><p data-track="6" style='text-align: justify; box-sizing: border-box; margin-top: 20px; margin-bottom: 20px; border: 0px; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 18px; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;'><span leaf="">那条夹在两排房屋间的凹凸不平，歪歪扭扭的青石板路，大姑妈年年都要踩上几回，直到那条路变成了水泥路，再变成了宽阔的沿江大道。</span></p><section style='box-sizing: border-box; margin-top: 18px; margin-bottom: 18px; border: 0px; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 18px; text-align: justify; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;'><span leaf=""><span class="wxart_image" wx-style='display:inline-block;border: 0px;margin: 0px auto 8px;padding: 0px;display: block;border-radius: 4px;cursor: zoom-in;height: auto;vertical-align: baseline;width: 100%;box-sizing:border-box;max-width:100% !important;'></span></span><p style='text-align: center; box-sizing: border-box; border: 0px; font-size: 14px; line-height: 20px; color: rgb(153, 153, 153);'><span leaf="">仙桃沿江大道</span></p></section><p data-track="45" style='text-align: justify; box-sizing: border-box; margin-top: 20px; margin-bottom: 20px; border: 0px; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 18px; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;'><span leaf="">老街的老粉馆也消失了，大姑妈也走了。</span></p><p data-track="9" style='text-align: justify; box-sizing: border-box; margin-top: 20px; margin-bottom: 20px; border: 0px; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 18px; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;'><span leaf="">老粉馆的记忆渐渐模糊，努力回忆，不过是零碎片段。</span></p><p data-track="13" style='text-align: justify; box-sizing: border-box; margin-top: 20px; margin-bottom: 20px; border: 0px; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 18px; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;'><span leaf="">那时候，先要去门口的柜台付钱，领取一个小竹条，竹条油腻腻的，一股鳝鱼粉的浓厚气息。</span></p><p data-track="10" style='text-align: justify; box-sizing: border-box; margin-top: 20px; margin-bottom: 20px; border: 0px; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 18px; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;'><span leaf="">拿着竹条要走到大堂深处取餐。取餐的地方有一口大铁锅，半边盖着木板。锅里面是咕嘟咕嘟冒着热气的大骨汤，汤汁浓厚鲜香。</span></p><p data-track="46" style='text-align: justify; box-sizing: border-box; margin-top: 20px; margin-bottom: 20px; border: 0px; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 18px; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;'><span leaf="">据说汤料都是选用野鳝鱼骨、猪腿骨和肉皮，熬出来的。</span></p><p data-track="12" style='text-align: justify; box-sizing: border-box; margin-top: 20px; margin-bottom: 20px; border: 0px; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 18px; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;'><span leaf="">师傅抓一把粉放在漏斗状的长柄筛中，在开水锅里里浸泡一下，提起来，用长筷子敲两下，放入碗中，舀一勺浓汤，滴上一滴油。</span></p><p data-track="47" style='text-align: justify; box-sizing: border-box; margin-top: 20px; margin-bottom: 20px; border: 0px; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 18px; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;'><span leaf="">汤粉上的那一滴油可不是普通的油，那是鳝鱼骨油炸过的，带着鳝鱼的鲜味儿。</span></p><p data-track="14" style='text-align: justify; box-sizing: border-box; margin-top: 20px; margin-bottom: 20px; border: 0px; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 18px; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;'><span leaf="">如果是奢侈的鳝鱼粉会铺上一层切成细丝炒制的鳝鱼。</span></p><p data-track="48" style='text-align: justify; box-sizing: border-box; margin-top: 20px; margin-bottom: 20px; border: 0px; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 18px; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;'><span leaf="">如果是普通的平粉会舀上一勺带着鳝鱼骨或一两根鳝鱼丝的汁。</span></p><p data-track="49" style='text-align: justify; box-sizing: border-box; margin-top: 20px; margin-bottom: 20px; border: 0px; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 18px; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;'><span leaf="">现在，糊汤粉的浇汁是三鲜的，一般是黑木耳蛋皮，好一点的加肉圆子和鹌鹑蛋。</span></p><p data-track="54" style='text-align: justify; box-sizing: border-box; margin-top: 20px; margin-bottom: 20px; border: 0px; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 18px; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;'><span leaf="">据说，老街附近的爽爽鳝鱼粉馆还不错，生意兴隆，他家的粉量足，一碗粉漏斗筛要装两下，价格才5元。</span></p><p data-track="55" style='text-align: justify; box-sizing: border-box; margin-top: 20px; margin-bottom: 20px; border: 0px; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 18px; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;'><span leaf="">只是，我有点嫌太咸了。</span></p><section style='box-sizing: border-box; margin-top: 18px; margin-bottom: 18px; border: 0px; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 18px; text-align: justify; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;'><span leaf=""><span class="wxart_image" wx-style='display:inline-block;border: 0px;margin: 0px auto 8px;padding: 0px;display: block;border-radius: 4px;cursor: zoom-in;height: auto;vertical-align: baseline;width: 100%;box-sizing:border-box;max-width:100% !important;'></span></span><p style='text-align: center; box-sizing: border-box; border: 0px; font-size: 14px; line-height: 20px; color: rgb(153, 153, 153);'><span leaf="">现在的糊汤粉是三鲜的浇汁</span></p></section><h1 style='font-size: 1.056em; margin-top: 20px; margin-bottom: 20px; border: 0px; line-height: 1.579; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); width: 676px; vertical-align: middle; text-align: justify; box-sizing: border-box; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;'><strong><span leaf="">鳝鱼米粉的前世传说</span></strong></h1><p data-track="31" style='text-align: justify; box-sizing: border-box; margin-top: 20px; margin-bottom: 20px; border: 0px; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 18px; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;'><span leaf="">沔阳的许多传说与“孝”相关，鳝鱼米粉的来历也是这样。</span></p><p data-track="32" style='text-align: justify; box-sizing: border-box; margin-top: 20px; margin-bottom: 20px; border: 0px; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 18px; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;'><span leaf="">传说在清朝末年，沔阳一位孝子，无钱为卧病在床的母亲抓药治病，听老人说黄鳝吃了可以补身体，补血气，于是自己下河堤捉了十几条，买了一点骨头，加生姜熬成汤给她母亲喝。</span></p><p data-track="33" style='text-align: justify; box-sizing: border-box; margin-top: 20px; margin-bottom: 20px; border: 0px; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 18px; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;'><span leaf="">他母亲喝后说：“儿啊，这是什么汤这么鲜美？”儿子听后非常高兴说：“这是儿子自己捉的黄鳝加骨头熬的汤。”于是，儿子就天天下河抓鱼熬汤给母亲喝。这样半年过后母亲竟然病好了。</span></p><p data-track="34" style='text-align: justify; box-sizing: border-box; margin-top: 20px; margin-bottom: 20px; border: 0px; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 18px; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;'><span leaf="">康复后的母亲将自己田里的米磨成浆，做成米线，将鳝鱼汤加入米浆，做成糊汤，和儿子开始在街边叫卖糊汤粉。</span></p><p data-track="56" style='text-align: justify; box-sizing: border-box; margin-top: 20px; margin-bottom: 20px; border: 0px; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 18px; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;'><span leaf="">由于味道特别，鲜味十足，一传十、十传百，渐渐成了沔阳家喻户晓的风味早点。</span></p><h1 style='font-size: 1.056em; margin-top: 20px; margin-bottom: 20px; border: 0px; line-height: 1.579; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); width: 676px; vertical-align: middle; text-align: justify; box-sizing: border-box; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;'><strong><span leaf="">鳝鱼的今生</span></strong></h1><p data-track="39" style='text-align: justify; box-sizing: border-box; margin-top: 20px; margin-bottom: 20px; border: 0px; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 18px; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;'><span leaf="">时光来到现在，鳝鱼不再是米粉上的一片点缀，黄鳝的食用也正在由传统的蒸煮方式逐渐扩大为干装、腌存。</span></p><p data-track="59" style='text-align: justify; box-sizing: border-box; margin-top: 20px; margin-bottom: 20px; border: 0px; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 18px; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;'><span leaf="">“张沟”牌黄鳝已在2007年8月被湖北省农业厅认定为湖北省无公害水产品产地。</span></p><p data-track="42" style='text-align: justify; box-sizing: border-box; margin-top: 20px; margin-bottom: 20px; border: 0px; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 18px; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;'><span leaf="">“全国黄鳝看湖北，湖北黄鳝看仙桃，仙桃黄鳝在张沟”湖北七成的黄鳝出在仙桃张沟。</span></p><p data-track="60" style='text-align: justify; box-sizing: border-box; margin-top: 20px; margin-bottom: 20px; border: 0px; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 18px; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;'><span leaf="">鳝鱼的食谱越发的丰富起来。</span></p><section style='box-sizing: border-box; margin-top: 18px; margin-bottom: 18px; border: 0px; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 18px; text-align: justify; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;'><span leaf=""><span class="wxart_image" wx-style='display:inline-block;border: 0px;margin: 0px auto 8px;padding: 0px;display: block;border-radius: 4px;cursor: zoom-in;height: auto;vertical-align: baseline;width: 100%;box-sizing:border-box;max-width:100% !important;'></span></span><p style='box-sizing: border-box; margin-top: 20px; border: 0px;'><span leaf=""><br></span></p></section><h1 style='font-size: 1.056em; margin-top: 20px; margin-bottom: 20px; border: 0px; line-height: 1.579; color: rgb(0, 0, 0); width: 676px; vertical-align: middle; text-align: justify; box-sizing: border-box; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;'><strong><span leaf="">黄鳝的108道美食</span></strong></h1><p data-track="44" style='text-align: justify; box-sizing: border-box; margin-top: 20px; margin-bottom: 20px; border: 0px; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 18px; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;'><span leaf="">鳝鱼的做法原本很多，我吃的最多的是妈妈做的鳝丝粉条汤，爆炒鳝丝，蒸鳝鱼，干煸盘鳝。可惜，我一样都没有学会，做出来卖相尚可，味道差一点意思，总有一股腥味。</span></p><section style='box-sizing: border-box; margin-top: 18px; margin-bottom: 18px; border: 0px; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 18px; text-align: justify; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;'><span leaf=""><span class="wxart_image" wx-style='display:inline-block;border: 0px;margin: 0px auto 8px;padding: 0px;display: block;border-radius: 4px;cursor: zoom-in;height: auto;vertical-align: baseline;width: 100%;box-sizing:border-box;max-width:100% !important;'></span></span><p style='text-align: center; box-sizing: border-box; border: 0px; font-size: 14px; line-height: 20px; color: rgb(153, 153, 153);'><span leaf="">自家做的红烧鳝鱼，味道不错</span></p></section><p data-track="50" style='text-align: justify; box-sizing: border-box; margin-top: 20px; margin-bottom: 20px; border: 0px; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 18px; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;'><span leaf="">楚菜大师李和鸣说在仙桃黄鳝有100多种吃法。他以本地黄鳝为食材，制作出的鳝鱼菜宛如精心雕琢的艺术品，砂锅鳝丝、土鸡蛋皮煮鳝丝、芝麻鳝排、五彩鳝丝、菊花鳝鱼、软兜鳝鱼……有传承也有创新。</span></p><section style='box-sizing: border-box; margin-top: 18px; margin-bottom: 18px; border: 0px; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 18px; text-align: justify; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;'><span leaf=""><span class="wxart_image" wx-style='display:inline-block;border: 0px;margin: 0px auto 8px;padding: 0px;display: block;border-radius: 4px;cursor: zoom-in;height: auto;vertical-align: baseline;width: 100%;box-sizing:border-box;max-width:100% !important;'></span></span><p style='text-align: center; box-sizing: border-box; border: 0px; font-size: 14px; line-height: 20px; color: rgb(153, 153, 153);'><span leaf="">像书页一样打开的麻花酥鳝</span></p></section><p data-track="51" style='text-align: justify; box-sizing: border-box; margin-top: 20px; margin-bottom: 20px; border: 0px; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 18px; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;'><span leaf="">此外，他的工作团队将黄鳝的肉、皮、骨头加以充分运用，将黄鳝与沔阳传统的九味桌盒相结合，成功开发出了椒盐鳝骨、凉拌鳝鱼皮、香酥鳝鱼条等9道黄鳝凉拌菜品，实现现代创意与传统习俗的巧妙融合。</span></p><section style='box-sizing: border-box; margin-top: 18px; margin-bottom: 18px; border: 0px; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 18px; text-align: justify; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;'><span leaf=""><span class="wxart_image" wx-style='display:inline-block;border: 0px;margin: 0px auto 8px;padding: 0px;display: block;border-radius: 4px;cursor: zoom-in;height: auto;vertical-align: baseline;width: 100%;box-sizing:border-box;max-width:100% !important;'></span></span><p style='text-align: center; box-sizing: border-box; border: 0px; font-size: 14px; line-height: 20px; color: rgb(153, 153, 153);'><span leaf="">九味碟鳝鱼菜</span></p></section><p data-track="52" style='text-align: justify; box-sizing: border-box; margin-top: 20px; margin-bottom: 20px; border: 0px; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 18px; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;'><span leaf="">儿时，不知鳝鱼价格如何，只知道妈妈经常买给我们吃，现在觉得鳝鱼价格越来越贵了，感觉消费不起了。</span></p><p data-track="53" style='text-align: justify; box-sizing: border-box; margin-top: 20px; margin-bottom: 20px; border: 0px; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 18px; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;'><span leaf="">只有，那一碗鳝鱼米粉依旧是朴素温暖。</span></p><p data-track="58" style='text-align: justify; box-sizing: border-box; margin-top: 20px; border: 0px; color: rgb(34, 34, 34); font-size: 18px; font-family: Arial, sans-serif;'><span leaf=""><br></span><span leaf=""><a class="wx_topic_link" topic-id="mjb1v94q-f76yuo" style='color: #576B95 !important;' data-topic="1">#星光随笔</a>#</span></p><section data-role="paragraph"><p><span leaf=""><br></span></p><p><span leaf=""><font size="1" color="#c0c0c0">文章来源：头条@生活慢调子</font></span></p></section></section><section><span leaf=""><br></span></section><p style='display: none;'><mp-style-type data-value="3"></mp-style-type></p></div> 一碗糊汤粉配油条，标配。小时候的米粉是现压出来的鲜粉丝。糊汤是猪大骨，猪头骨 鳝鱼骨头，小鲫鱼熬汤，鲜米粉下糊，得到一碗鲜汤。 新鲜咮道好！在京东买的几乎没有鳝鱼口感、老板还需深加工。
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